Ruby of the rivers

In the Gem State, trout reign supreme

By Michael Ames and Rebecca Meany

Tasty no matter how it is prepared, freshwater trout is a delicately flavored, ruby red or white-meat fish whose pure flavors are complemented by even the simplest preparations.

Sun Valley-area chefs have deviated from classic butter-and-lemon norms with savory originals to tempt any trout-lover’s palate.

At Michel’s Christiana Restaurant in Ketchum, chef Steve Berks prepares ruby red, farm-raised rainbow trout. Though the Christi serves a pink filet, Berks is quick to point out the difference between white and ruby trout is only skin deep. Trout farms achieve “ruby-ness” by feeding the fish natural color enhancers; color does not affect taste.

Berks pan sautés filets encrusted in toasted, crushed hazelnuts before dousing with brown-butter-lime sauce. The slightly burnt butter “has a nutty flavor that accentuates the hazelnuts” and complements the lime juice. Butter-lime dressing can be applied to a grilled filet for one of the simplest trout innovations around.

Chris Kastner, head chef and owner of CK’s in Hailey, favors a robust and spicy preparation for his Big Fat Trout recipe. A combination of chili powder, Old Bay seasoning, oregano, salt and pepper is mixed with olive oil and liberally rubbed on the fish while the grill is heating up.

“It’s ordered by more visitors than locals because people have heard about Idaho trout,” said Kastner. “We sell a ton of it in July, August and at Christmas.”

In the 1950s, customers at Warm Springs Ranch Restaurant could catch their own dinner at the trout pond adjacent to the restaurant. Now, while the fish there swim undisturbed, trout remains a popular dish on the menu, said head chef Mark Anderson.

The choices at Warm Springs are pan-fried (with lemon-pepper, garlic, and a bit of flour) or oven baked (with sherry, lemon juice and butter).

In the opinion of many locals, the best way to enjoy Idaho trout remains heading outdoors, casting a fly and catching it. Rainbow and brown trout abound in the many rivers and creeks of Sun Valley’s environs (check local catch-and-release regulations before wading into the water).

Before grilling trout, beware of one caveat: fish sticks. Cut a raw Idaho potato in half and rub the grill down before grilling and that crisping trout will slide around the grill as if on ice.

Eaten outdoors, where all food tastes best, river trout can be prepared in a number of simple ways. With hot coals from a campfire, bake or poach a trout. With a roll of aluminum foil, anything is possible. Salt, pepper, oil (or butter) is all that’s needed for a simple campfire fish bake.

For a savory baked filet, use a reflector oven that can be easily made with aluminum foil and a couple of sticks. With this small trout-covering lean-to facing the coals, fish bakes effortlessly.

For a lighter, poached version just wrap the trout in a sturdy aluminum foil briefcase and place atop the coals. Seal it well, sit back, relax and listen to your dinner sizzle. •

Chris Kastner’s
Big Fat Trout recipe

10-oz filet of trout

Spice rub:
1 teaspoon chili
powder
2 teaspoons Old
Bay seasoning
1 teaspoon oregano
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon black
pepper

Combine spices. Rub the trout with the spice mix and brush with olive oil. Get the grill good and hot, clean it and spray with cooking spray or rub with oil.

Tartar sauce:
2 cups mayonnaise
1 teaspoon lemon
juice
1 Jalapeño, minced
1 teaspoon spice
rub
¼ cup sour
gherkins, minced
1 rib of celery,
minced
salt to taste
3 tablespoons
parsley, chopped

Combine all ingredients in a bowl.
Adjust acidity and salt with lemon juice.

~ Serves 4.